ON THE AFRICAN SAVANNA;
Ball pythons (python regius) are from west Africa and can be found in Senegal, Mali, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Benin, and Nigeria through Cameroon, Chad and the Central African Republic to Sudan and Uganda. To the Igbo tribes of Nigeria, python regius was believed to be symbolic to the earth, being that they travel so close to the ground. They are treated with great care and respect among the Igbo, and if one happened to wander onto someone's property, they would be allowed to roam freely or would be gently relocated nearby. If a ball python were to be accidentally killed, the Igbo would build a coffin and have a short funeral for the animal. Python regius was also worn as "living jewelry," which is where the name "royal python" derives from. They spend about 90-95% of their lives living inside of termite mounds and rodent dens, seeking new shelter once a food source has ran its course or if the scent of the ball pythons defecation turns potential prey away.
HOW THEY HUNT;
Ball pythons are considered to be ambush predators. An ambush predator, quite literally, means that the predator sits and waits for an opportunity to scurry by, and they make their kill. Ball pythons are relatively sedentary animals, who can be quite shy, so they won't put themselves in a situation where they could be a potential meal to a bird of prey or other predator unless they absolutely have to, in which case will be in the cover of darkness, at night. They much prefer to stay hidden and secure.
PYTHON REGIUS IN CAPTIVITY;
Ball pythons are easily one of the most common snakes in the reptile community. They come in many different colors, patterns, etc. that are called morphs. Their care is relatively easy, if done correctly. In the next few paragraphs, I'll be going over what a ball pythons care requirements are, and how you, as a keeper can make the best environment for your snake.
ENCLOSURE; Let's start with the housing for a ball python. Ball pythons are considerably small compared to other python species such as Burmese pythons or coastal carpet pythons, and don't require large enclosures. The general rule of thumb with reptiles is that bigger is better, but that rule doesn't apply to every reptile as reptiles are far too vast with many different species that have specific care needs. That being said, there are several types of enclosures you can use to house a ball python. The first, and most common among hobbyists are rack systems. Rack systems are essentially units of shelving, often with heat tape installed, with tubs that can either slide in and out of a single slot on the rack or can be used with the lids to the tubs. Tubs are ideal for python regius due to the fact that they mimic their natural habitat much better than a tank will, because they're small and secure. Another option if you only plan on having one or two ball pythons (they're like potato chips - you can't have just one) is a PVC enclosure. PVC enclosures are ideal because they're very well insulated and because they only open through the front, your ball python is less likely to feel threatened or insecure in the enclosure. The third option is highly common, glass tanks. Glass tanks are fine for ball pythons, but they need to be set up correctly as does any other enclosure. I'll go over a shopping list and how to properly set up an enclosure in another guide, which I can link to this page.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT SUBSTRATE; Substrate is the bedding you use in the enclosure. There are many different types available, and which one you use depends solely on the climate of your own home. If you live in a dry climate, let's say Las Vegas (where I'm from, woo!) then you'll want to use a substrate that'll aid in your humidity levels, such as cypress mulch or Reptichip (not Reptibark). If you live in a humid climate, such as Florida, then you'll want to go with a substrate that will not raise your humidity levels too much, such as aspen or even paper towels.
TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY; Having correct temperatures and humidity are essential to have a healthy ball python. Without proper husbandry, you risk your ball python getting a respiratory infection, scale rot, or losing weight due to not eating. Ideal conditions are absolutely vital to have a healthy, thriving python regius. Let's look at average temperatures during the dry season in 3 native ranges of python regius. Average temperatures in Nigeria are 82.4 degrees, average temperatures in Uganda are roughly 84 degrees, and average temperatures in Senegal are 86 degrees. That being said, ideal overall ambient temperatures for ball pythons are between 84-86 degrees. It's often believed that ball pythons require belly heat - but the truth is, they simply need heat. Many keepers are switching over to all ambient heating, where the have an entire room heated to 84-86 to mimic the climate of their native region. You can offer a thermal gradient depending on the type of enclosure you have, in which case you'll want your temperatures to be 80-82 on the cooler side, 84-86 ambient, and can provide a 88-90 degree hot spot. Remember, proper temperatures are vital not only for overall health, but also digestion. Because ball pythons are ectotherms, they rely on outside heat source for most major bodily functions. If they're unable to digest and break down prey, it can lead to the prey starting the decomposing process inside the snake, which can then turn into septicemia (sepsis) and can be fatal. Humidity is just as important as temperatures. Humidity is moisture that is in the air, and it's been a common misconception that misting your ball python creates humidity - when really, it just kind of makes everything soggy. Now, there are some species of python that do benefit from occasional misting, but python regius is not one of them. Misting can lead to scale rot due to wet bedding, and if coupled with poor temperatures, can cause a respiratory infection. Correct humidity is also needed to help a ball python shed comfortably. A ball pythons shed should be complete, and not coming off in pieces. An ideal range for humidity is 55-65%.
AVAILABLE PREY FOR PYTHON REGIUS;
In the wild, a ball pythons natural prey item would be the natal multimammate mouse, commonly known as the African soft furred rat. Due to limited availability, however, many keepers feed Norwegian rats instead. Mice can also be found in the reptile community as another staple feeder for python regius.
FEEDING YOUR BALL PYTHON;
When it comes to feeding a ball python, it can be pretty stressful for first time keepers. The first rule of thumb is to always feed IN the enclosure. There's an outdated practice in the reptile community that encourages unknowing keepers to move their snake out of the enclosure to feed - which is honestly just a silly practice that needs to die off. Moving to feed a ball python came around when someone came up with the concept of "tank aggression," which I have another article about that I've linked below. To cut to the chase, tank aggression is a myth - and moving to feed is incredibly stressful on your snake. Remember near the beginning when we talked about how they hunt? They sit and wait, then strike when prey goes by. With moving them, you're disrupting that entire process by moving them out of the area they feel secure, into another area that is unfamiliar, and are now expecting them to eat their meal. Now, while some ball pythons will eat out of the enclosure, it will eventually become a problem, so it's best just avoid it altogether. Now that you'll be feeding in the enclosure, let's discuss what you'll be feeding. There's 3 options, live, frozen/thawed, and pre-killed. What you feed depends on two things; your snake and availability. Some snakes will only take live, some only pre-killed, and some would probably eat a cheeseburger if you laid it in front of them (don't do that). Some may have live more readily available than others, so it's up to you to source your feeders before you purchase the snake.
WHAT ABOUT SOAKING?;
Soaking is another old and outdated practice in the reptile community - and refers to physically placing the ball python into a container/tub full of water and allowing them to "soak." The belief is that it will help with a shed and hydrate the snake - but - if your humidity levels are where they need to be, and you've provided access to water 24/7, there is no need to soak a healthy snake. Now, occasionally there are conditions in which a medicated soak are required, but if your ball python has no medical need for a soak - it's completely unnecessary.
BEHAVIOR THAT CAN BE EXPECTED;
Ball pythons are typically very shy and primitive animals. When threatened, they ball up to protect themselves and if needed - will strike. A strike from your snake is nothing to be afraid of, and something that should be expected. After all, ball pythons are not domesticated and are still considered wild animals. If your ball python is striking, there could be a few reasons why. Your snake may not feel secure enough in their enclosure and may feel threatened, you may have spooked or startled your snake, or your ball python may just be excessively defensive for unknown reasons. Some are, and some are more tolerant, and some are only semi-tolerant.
HANDLING PYTHON REGIUS;
Because these animals are typically shy and can stress easy, handling should be kept to a minimum and the snake should never be put into a stressful situation. It's never advised to handle a snake that has just eaten (another reason why we don't move to feed) for at least 24 hours, as well as only handling for 15-20 minutes per day. If your snake is not eating, do not handle at all or it will just add to the issue. Excessive handling can cause stress which can lead to hunger strikes, or respiratory issues due to the inconsistent temperatures and humidity throughout your home and their enclosure.
DOES YOUR BALL PYTHON NEED LIGHT?;
Lighting is not necessary for python regius simply due to the fact that they're a nocturnal animal. Nocturnal means that they come out during the cover of darkness, so adding lights can be potentially stressful. Now, if you have a bioactive set up with live plants, then using lighting is required for the plants - and it's your job to ensure that your ball python has plenty of hiding spots and burrows to get away from as much light as possible. I recommend using low-light plants for bioactive enclosures for python regius. If your enclosure is not bioactive, then there is zero reason for adding lighting.
BUT THE PET STORE/VETERINARIAN SAID!;
So, now that we've gone over correct practices and unsafe practices, let's talk about why pet stores and even veterinarians recommend old, outdated practices. Pet stores are never a reliable source simply due to lack of basic animal care knowledge and wanting to make money. If they can convince you to spend $300 on a ridiculous enclosure for a very small ball python, complete with a huge tank, lights, under tank heat (with no mention of a thermostat) and tell you to feed pinkies and move them to another enclosure to feed - they're simply wanting to make money off of a new keeper. Which is their right, as they are a place of business. I personally choose to not support big chain pet stores and won't even purchase an animal from one - so I always urge new keepers to find good, reputable breeders to support instead. Now, let's look at veterinarians. We all know that vet school is long and rigorous, but I can tell you that care needs of reptiles are only briefly touched. Why? Because there are so many different species of reptiles with vastly different care needs, that it would take several more years of schooling to fully learn. So, when I go to the vet, I am not looking for care advice unless my vet actually actively keeps that species. If I'm at the vet, I'm looking for treatment of an illness if need be, a diagnosis, or just a health check up. It's important to always try to find a veterinarian who specializes in exotics, and more specifically - herpetology. I typically take care and husbandry advice from veterinarians with a grain of salt.
OVERALL;
Ball pythons are absolutely wonderful snakes to keep, and can be a real joy when done correctly. I always urge new and aspiring keepers to do plenty of research before purchasing any animal and ensure they're prepared.
Ball pythons (python regius) are from west Africa and can be found in Senegal, Mali, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Benin, and Nigeria through Cameroon, Chad and the Central African Republic to Sudan and Uganda. To the Igbo tribes of Nigeria, python regius was believed to be symbolic to the earth, being that they travel so close to the ground. They are treated with great care and respect among the Igbo, and if one happened to wander onto someone's property, they would be allowed to roam freely or would be gently relocated nearby. If a ball python were to be accidentally killed, the Igbo would build a coffin and have a short funeral for the animal. Python regius was also worn as "living jewelry," which is where the name "royal python" derives from. They spend about 90-95% of their lives living inside of termite mounds and rodent dens, seeking new shelter once a food source has ran its course or if the scent of the ball pythons defecation turns potential prey away.
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| Termite mound in West Africa. |
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| Igbo man with python regius. |
Ball pythons are considered to be ambush predators. An ambush predator, quite literally, means that the predator sits and waits for an opportunity to scurry by, and they make their kill. Ball pythons are relatively sedentary animals, who can be quite shy, so they won't put themselves in a situation where they could be a potential meal to a bird of prey or other predator unless they absolutely have to, in which case will be in the cover of darkness, at night. They much prefer to stay hidden and secure.
 |
| Here we see a lesser hatchling of ours creeping up to an unsuspecting African soft furred hopper. |
PYTHON REGIUS IN CAPTIVITY;
Ball pythons are easily one of the most common snakes in the reptile community. They come in many different colors, patterns, etc. that are called morphs. Their care is relatively easy, if done correctly. In the next few paragraphs, I'll be going over what a ball pythons care requirements are, and how you, as a keeper can make the best environment for your snake.
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| Nosferatu - our GHI Fire male regius. |
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| Some of our own racks and our incubator. |
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Here we have Visenya, our Fire Mojave female in her 28qt tub, complete with Reptichip substrate.
This handsome fellow is Zeke, who was our very first python regius.
Here he is shown in a glass terrarium. Notice the added moss for humidity along with foliage for security.
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This is Orchid, our Lesser Mojave female.
She is shown here, in a 28qt tub with cypress mulch as substrate.
Cypress is our substrate of choice here at Soul Revival.
|
AVAILABLE PREY FOR PYTHON REGIUS;
In the wild, a ball pythons natural prey item would be the natal multimammate mouse, commonly known as the African soft furred rat. Due to limited availability, however, many keepers feed Norwegian rats instead. Mice can also be found in the reptile community as another staple feeder for python regius.
FEEDING YOUR BALL PYTHON;
When it comes to feeding a ball python, it can be pretty stressful for first time keepers. The first rule of thumb is to always feed IN the enclosure. There's an outdated practice in the reptile community that encourages unknowing keepers to move their snake out of the enclosure to feed - which is honestly just a silly practice that needs to die off. Moving to feed a ball python came around when someone came up with the concept of "tank aggression," which I have another article about that I've linked below. To cut to the chase, tank aggression is a myth - and moving to feed is incredibly stressful on your snake. Remember near the beginning when we talked about how they hunt? They sit and wait, then strike when prey goes by. With moving them, you're disrupting that entire process by moving them out of the area they feel secure, into another area that is unfamiliar, and are now expecting them to eat their meal. Now, while some ball pythons will eat out of the enclosure, it will eventually become a problem, so it's best just avoid it altogether. Now that you'll be feeding in the enclosure, let's discuss what you'll be feeding. There's 3 options, live, frozen/thawed, and pre-killed. What you feed depends on two things; your snake and availability. Some snakes will only take live, some only pre-killed, and some would probably eat a cheeseburger if you laid it in front of them (don't do that). Some may have live more readily available than others, so it's up to you to source your feeders before you purchase the snake.
 |
Big Momma, our Mojave female, is notorious for striking her prey from her hide.
She's a pro at ambushing.
|
Soaking is another old and outdated practice in the reptile community - and refers to physically placing the ball python into a container/tub full of water and allowing them to "soak." The belief is that it will help with a shed and hydrate the snake - but - if your humidity levels are where they need to be, and you've provided access to water 24/7, there is no need to soak a healthy snake. Now, occasionally there are conditions in which a medicated soak are required, but if your ball python has no medical need for a soak - it's completely unnecessary.
BEHAVIOR THAT CAN BE EXPECTED;
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Nosferatu is displaying defensive behavior by preparing to strike.
What he's trying to tell us is that he feels threatened, and we need to get away from him.
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Sookie is also displaying defensive behavior, but she's displaying the
typical "balling up" behavior. Regius does this as a way to protect themselves.
You'll commonly see this behavior.
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Because these animals are typically shy and can stress easy, handling should be kept to a minimum and the snake should never be put into a stressful situation. It's never advised to handle a snake that has just eaten (another reason why we don't move to feed) for at least 24 hours, as well as only handling for 15-20 minutes per day. If your snake is not eating, do not handle at all or it will just add to the issue. Excessive handling can cause stress which can lead to hunger strikes, or respiratory issues due to the inconsistent temperatures and humidity throughout your home and their enclosure.
 |
| Orchid hangin' out. |
Lighting is not necessary for python regius simply due to the fact that they're a nocturnal animal. Nocturnal means that they come out during the cover of darkness, so adding lights can be potentially stressful. Now, if you have a bioactive set up with live plants, then using lighting is required for the plants - and it's your job to ensure that your ball python has plenty of hiding spots and burrows to get away from as much light as possible. I recommend using low-light plants for bioactive enclosures for python regius. If your enclosure is not bioactive, then there is zero reason for adding lighting.
 |
Wednesday, our champagne female, utilizing her hide.
This is where you regius will most likely spend majority of their time.
|
So, now that we've gone over correct practices and unsafe practices, let's talk about why pet stores and even veterinarians recommend old, outdated practices. Pet stores are never a reliable source simply due to lack of basic animal care knowledge and wanting to make money. If they can convince you to spend $300 on a ridiculous enclosure for a very small ball python, complete with a huge tank, lights, under tank heat (with no mention of a thermostat) and tell you to feed pinkies and move them to another enclosure to feed - they're simply wanting to make money off of a new keeper. Which is their right, as they are a place of business. I personally choose to not support big chain pet stores and won't even purchase an animal from one - so I always urge new keepers to find good, reputable breeders to support instead. Now, let's look at veterinarians. We all know that vet school is long and rigorous, but I can tell you that care needs of reptiles are only briefly touched. Why? Because there are so many different species of reptiles with vastly different care needs, that it would take several more years of schooling to fully learn. So, when I go to the vet, I am not looking for care advice unless my vet actually actively keeps that species. If I'm at the vet, I'm looking for treatment of an illness if need be, a diagnosis, or just a health check up. It's important to always try to find a veterinarian who specializes in exotics, and more specifically - herpetology. I typically take care and husbandry advice from veterinarians with a grain of salt.
OVERALL;
Ball pythons are absolutely wonderful snakes to keep, and can be a real joy when done correctly. I always urge new and aspiring keepers to do plenty of research before purchasing any animal and ensure they're prepared.
 |
| Thanks for reading! |
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